Prickly Pear Kitchen is 'inspired by Mexican cuisine', but it is not the classic US-style menu that mediocre mainland chains dole out.

This intimate venue has that fabulous feature of small places.

If a friend isn't already sitting at a nearby table, they soon will be.

Such informality is useful, as it's a challenge to eat the food decorously.

We started with a good fresh guacamole; a big step up from the green paste which sometimes serves for guac these days.

This was followed by a pile of tiny tentacles, which gave us a moment of guilt, but this was soon dispelled when we tasted the enjoyable pickled octopus tostadas.

(Image: Matt and Cat)

Two crispy tostados bore a pile of fresh salsa verde on a guacamole base, topped by seafood and enlivened by a scattering of pickled veg and chipotle oil.

It was a race to consume the crispy tostados before the guacamole rendered them quaggy – a race we just about won.

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A bowl of braised Padrón peppers was accessorised with a small tortilla sporran, and this brightly coloured circular fabric pouch was perfect for keeping the corn flatbreads warm.

The rich, smoky Padróns were served in a mild stew of heritage tomatoes topped with grated halloumi.

Eating this with the tortillas was a challenge, as the thin liquid couldn't be contained on the breads, and poured out.

It was possibly the first time since childhood we've needed to use table napkins to clean not only our hands and faces, but also arms and elbows.

(Image: Matt and Cat)

The dish was pleasant, but impractical. 

The best thing on the table was a side of roasted sweetcorn.

With a hint of smokiness from the grill, the hot cob chunks were smothered in rich creamy and cheesy sauces, including Wensleydale.

This, our waiter advised, was a flavour match for a genuine Mexican cheese. It certainly suited us.

The Prickly Pear Kitchen is a fun and innovative place to eat, and good value.

It's unusual to have Mexican-inspired food that was so light and refreshing.

Our experience of TexMex food elsewhere has majored on volume of food and hotness of chilli.

At Prickly Pear, neither of these are a problem, and they have a decent cocktail menu to go alongside.

Do give it a try - but don't wear your best top. 

(Image: Matt and Cat)

(Image: Matt and Cat)