Popular Isle of Wight restaurant a top recommendation

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We were keen to see if Egan had brought his flair for crafting complex and innovative plates to Cowes — spoiler: he definitely has.

A whiff of aromatic smoke drifted from the open kitchen, as we watched our BBQ scallop starters made — and then with a nod to the theatre of food, the glass-covered dishes were opened before us, allowing a few wisps of smoky goodness to cross the table.

A trio of pale scallops dwelt within, swaddled in a luxurious Jerusalem artichoke beurre blanc.

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Tiny crayfish and fragments of onion made a fascinating and unctuous combination. Curried monkfish tail was another seafood starter that worked splendidly.

Slabs of crisp, yet sweet beetroot, supported the big bone-in monkfish tail, that was soft and rich with curry spices.

Frozen grapes, sea herbs, a thai coconut sauce, and some bright green tenderstem made this a visual as well as culinary delight.

Maple pork tenderloin was a deceptive dish that had a secret to be discovered. The soft, perfectly pink meat was scattered with sweetly-caramelised onion and licked with herb emulsion.

It tasted good, and seemed surprisingly straightforward — until under a slice of charred celeriac root we found a nugget of the most powerful sweet bacon jam we've ever had.

Smeared across the pork slices, this smoky condiment was ridiculously effective.

Sea bass is not a surprise on any menu, but of course in Egan's hands there were plenty of unusual things to explore.

A smooth black garlic aioli and a sprinkle of salsa verde provided contrasting tastes and textures for four massive hunks of gnocchi.

Slices of spicy chorizo lay over the fish, its crispy skin concealing the classic white sea bass experience.

We shared a cocoa millefeuille — more savoury than sweet — with cocoa-nib ice cream and black sesame wafers all held together by a rich liquorice-root sauce.

Egan's work is interesting and exciting, so if you want a truly outstanding meal out — and you don't mind paying for it — this is one of our top recommendations.