OVER THE many years that we have been writing about eating on the Isle of Wight we are often asked where the best place is for seafood.

Holding fast in Cowes High Street since the mid-1970s is Murray's seafood restaurant; this autumn we finally stepped across the threshold.

There is something of Nelson's boudoir about Murray's. Although now painted in cool Scandi-tones, the lounge is panelled with horizontal planks.

No surprise, as the eponymous Murray was nephew to boat builder Uffa Fox and allegedly used the skills learnt at his uncle's knee to refurbish what was then the empty Commercial pub.

Isle of Wight County Press:

The swordfish steak.

Nibbling mixed breads, we studied the menu. Committed carnivores will find a few steak choices but, unless you are particularly obtuse, you'll have come for the fish.

The scallop starter (main image, top) was unexpectedly generous. Six favourably-sized succulent molluscs had been seared in butter which was then poured over the salad, making a surprisingly delicious dressing.

It takes some going to out whitebait the Taverners, but Murray's made a good attempt with its crunchy, breaded fish and tangy homemade tartare.

It was the wild mushroom and truffle oil sauce which decided Cat on the plaice fillet. Rich and creamy, it held its own with the strong-tasting fish.

The vegetables were very good; stand-out were the melt-in-the-mouth new potatoes, supported by nicely-cooked courgette, carrot and green beans.

The daddy of the meal was the swordfish steak; mildly flavoured Asian-style, with notes of ginger and spring onions. The first mouthful elicited a "That's really good," and the compliments kept coming.

Isle of Wight County Press:

Make sure you leave room for dessert!

The intriguing blueberry meringue with blackcurrant and clotted cream ice cream was a spectacle; the purple fruit flavoured the pudding's brittle foundation well.

Like other long-established Isle of Wight restaurants, Murray's must be doing something right to maintain its position on such a dynamic thoroughfare as Cowes High Street.

Also, like those and other vintage venues, it delivers a solidly reliable experience. Our meals were made with competence and flashes of flair, served professionally in a peaceful and friendly environment.

Matt and Cat's bill:

Scallops £13.50
Whitebait £7.50
Plaice £19.50
Swordfish £19.50
Blueberry meringue £6.50

TOTAL: £66.50.

RATING: Four stars - Very good indeed; well worth seeking out.

CONTACT DETAILS:

Murray's, 106 High Street, Cowes, Isle of Wight, PO31 7AT.

Tel: 01983 296233

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